Sauna Tour: Estonia and Finland

Last month my girlfriend and I had the pleasure of being hosted by some wonderful friends in Tallinn, Estonia. Having visited previously in summer, I was excited to see everything at the other end of the thermometer. To extend the trip, we would also take the ferry across the gulf to Finland and spend a few days in Tampere and Helsinki.

With the shortest day in Tampere measuring less than 5 hours of daylight, it's easy to assume being cold and this far north wouldn't be much of an adventure. However, Estonians and Finns alike have two powerful cures for the winter blues: hearty food and warm saunas. Here are a few culinary highlights from the trip.

Black Bread

I guarantee this will have you broadening your bread horizons on your return. This deeply malty and densely textured bread is made from Rye and is commonly served with butter and a little twist of sea salt.

Sült

If your cat just started to meow as you read this, then I can only apologise. Whilst it is by far the least visually appetising item on our menu and very very closely resembles your cat's favourite dinner, this dish of slowly cooked and cooled meat is surprisingly tasty and goes well with the aforementioned dark bread.

Glöggi

Hot drinks are an essential part of winter happiness. Glöggi can be found either as a spiced (mulled) wine, or juice-based, taking inspiration from the abundance of forest berries. In the warmer months, the forests are a forager's paradise and filled with Blueberries, Cloudberries, Bilberries, Lingonberries and many others. Sadly all my pictures of this were taken with very cold hands in dwindling daylight, so you’ll just have to imagine this one or try mulling your own!

Curd Cheese

I always make my way to the snack section of a supermarket wherever I go in the world. Estonia have done the Lord’s work of turning the cheese part of cheesecake into pastries, snacks and even chocolate bars. The great news is that popular dairy company Kārums stock their delicious snacks in some Eastern European delicatessens in the UK.

Mulgi Puder

Translated as Mulgi's Porridge, this traditional South-Estonian dish is a hearty and very affordable staple. It is made by simply boiling barley along side your potatoes and forming it into a silkier, starchier mash. For those with a spectacular appetite for carbs, this can also be served inside an entire loaf of hollowed out bread with bacon, sour cream and onions. I have to be honest, this one truly beat me and I had to call time before the last crust.

Cardamom

I had absolutely no idea that Cardamom played such a big part in baking around here, but this donut was not only incredibly light and airy, it was one of the many delicious pastries and baked goods to feature the spice. I enjoyed this particular donut at the Pyynikki Observation Tower in Tampere, where they bake them fresh every morning.

Lohikeitto

Quite simply, Salmon Soup. This is one of those dishes where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. I'm convinced the magic is somewhere between the creamy broth and tender salmon, but it's really only perfect when everything comes together. I was lucky enough to enjoy this after a long hike through part of Nuuksio National Park on our last day.

Honourable Mention: VLND Burger, Tallinn

This is the FatSteak Club after all. But even so, I just had to save a mention for one of the tastiest burgers I’ve ever had the pleasure of eating. A simple combination of chipotle mayo, cheese and pickles, this thing was exceptional. What really shone here was the perfectly seasoned and clearly very homemade smash patty that retained its juicy secrets through every single bite.