Singapore is often seen as a transit town - a leaping off point for Asia, or those heading to Australia. It has the amazing Changi airport with indoor rain forest, hiking trails and the worlds largest indoor waterfall - why would you leave that?

Well, for the food of course! Singapore is a melting pot of cultures - Indian, Chinese, Malay and Singaporean. Like most major cities Singapore has its high end restaurants offering fine dining, and tourist traps alike. But if you want to taste the true flavours of the city and its cultures you need to head to a Hawker Centre. Any Hawker Centre.

In times gone by the Hawkers sold street food, over the years the government has stepped in, helped create centres for the vendors, and improved health and hygiene. If you are nervous about eating street food, you need not worry here. A simple Google produces an impressive list of places, and on a recent visit we were only able to try out a few, but they are so worth it.

The reason they are great? Imagine recipes that have been passed down from generation to generation, stalls that concentrate on one style of dish, and cook it day in and day out. Perfection is achieved, and all at reasonable prices. You can easily fill your belly for under £5.

There is lots of advice online about etiquette for Hawker Centres, or how to choose food and so on. For me it boiled down to a couple of key points.

If the tables have numbers it means you may be able to order your food, give the number and the food will be delivered. Check before ordering though. If the empty table you spy has an umbrella or pack of tissues on it - chances are it is taken and the person has gone to order their food
Be prepared to wait for the good stuff. If a stall has a queue, it’s probably because it is selling the best dish, not because service is slow (Unless you get unlucky like me and find yourself behind a large Deliveroo order!). Join the queue and order the popular dish
Some centres even have stalls with a Michelin star. Tian Tian is world famous for its Hainanese Chicken, and for good reason. If you want to try it though, get there early, once that days batch is gone, they shut up shop!

Hainanese Chicken

If Singapore is known for one thing it is Hainanese chicken rice. As with any popular dish, everyone claims that their’s is the best, and there is no better way of experiencing Hawker Centres than by making up your own mind!

You can even go as far as the famous Tian Tian at the Maxwell Centre - it has a Michelin star.

Chicken is poached in a fragrant stock, then shocked in ice water. Don’t be surprised if your chicken is room temperature or cold when you receive it. The slippery skin is part of the experience, don’t you dare leave it!

The accompanying rice has been cooked in the stock, and you are usually served a bowl of the delicious broth as well.

As fragrant and subtle as the flavour is, it’s the fiery chilli dipping sauce, or sticky dark soy that bring a real kick. Dip the chicken, drink the broth, savour the rice. Comfort food at its best.

Sesame oil chicken and dumplings

A remarkable find. Pieces of chicken thigh, roughly chopped, so watch for the bones, stewed in a rich soy sauce and sesame oil broth. Sweet, sticky but with the intense umami of soy.

A nod to health with a sprinkling of spring onion, to lift a bit of freshness.

I’m sure the gyoza style dumplings were not really meant to be dipped in the chicken sauce, but there was no way I was going to miss that trick!

Dumplings were filled with a tasty minced pork and crunch of veg, steamed to perfection. Great dipped in the incredibly spicy chilli sauce, but also the chicken remains.